Homeowner Electrical FAQ’s
**UPDATE 1-15-2025**
Before calling your Customer Service Representative, please take a moment to read through the following frequently asked questions and answers, and try the suggested solutions:
Part of the new code requirements is ALL outlets and lighting in habitable rooms will be AFCI or GFCI (arc fault circuit interruptor or ground fault circuit interruptor) protected.
Certain appliances and devices may not be AFCI or GFCI compatible and may trip. This does not mean there is an electrical issue on that circuit.
1. Why do the lights seem to blink or dim when I use the outlets?
a. General lighting outlets (AFCI protected) are installed throughout a house, per code spacing requirements. They are intended for products that utilize typical electrical current, such as lamps, radios, or clocks. When large cord-connected motor loads are plugged in, like a vacuum, the startup surge current for the motor can cause the lights to blink or dim. All circuits have the potential for such dimming and blinking, but general-use lighting outlets are most susceptible. To minimize dimming, plug the large load items into circuits that are not connected to lighting loads, such as any kitchen, dining room, nook, laundry room or bathroom outlets. The outdoor weatherproof outlets are also a “convenience lighting” power source meant for light typical use. Heaters BBQ will overload that circuit.
b. Common devices that cause dimming, blinking, or even circuit tripping include:
i. Vacuum cleaners
ii. Space Heaters
iii. Copy machines
iv. Large TV displays
v. Irons
vi. Electric yard tools
vii. Electronic and computer equipment
A NEW DEDICATED CIRCUIT MAY NEED TO BE RUN TO A ROOM WITH GENERAL LIGHTING CIRCUIT TO PLUG IN DEVICES THAT NEED THEIR OWN CIRCUIT.
2. Other items or devices that are now required by the new energy code, and can cause blinking or dimming, are dimmers-timers-motion sensors to control lighting circuits.
a. LED bulbs are required and need to be compatible with the dimmer used. Low voltage transformers can be quite sensitive to incompatible dimming devices. The lighting supplier may need to supply a compatible dimmer with a low voltage light fixture.
3. Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCI) Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI)
a. Current electrical codes require AFCI GFCI protection installed in the majority of your home.
b. AFCI/GFCI breakers have a test button located on the face of the breaker. If you push this button, an arc is created inside the breaker to verify the breaker will trip under arcing conditions. Pushing the button will result in the breaker tripping if the breaker is functioning properly. GFCI and AFCI devices can be worn out and loose their ability to trip properly or sustain normal loads if arcing conditions.
c. The breaker may may need to be replaced at that point
4. Why are my circuit breakers tripping?
a. Standard circuit breakers trip when a higher load is placed on them than they are rated for. A 15-amp circuit has 1800-watt maximum capacity. A 20-amp circuit has 2400-watt maximum capacity. A typical 13-amp vacuum can place a load of over 1500 watts on a circuit. When the maximum circuit capacity is exceeded, the breaker will trip. If the device you are using is tripping a 15-amp general lighting circuit, try plugging the device into 20 amps circuits such as any kitchen, dining room, nook, laundry room or bathroom outlets. If the 20-amp circuit also trips, something may be wrong with the device you are using, and you may need to contact the manufacturer for service or replacement.
b. If an electrical technician is to check on this tripping circuit, they should perform a motor load and heat load test on the circuit to show the circuit is working properly.
c. A dedicated circuit for a high power use item may need to be for that intended use.
5. Why doesn’t my switch turn anything on?
a. Some switches may control things other than light fixtures or recessed can lighting. Here are some additional items that the switch may control:
i. Switched ½ hot outlets (1 half of a duplex recpetacle is hot 100% of the time, and the other is only hot when the switch is turned on)
ii. Light pre-wires: These could either be interior or exterior lights that are not trimmed with a fixture, but covered with a blank plate.
iii. Paddle fan pre-wires, or secondary switches for paddle fan light kits
iv. Exterior landscape light pre-wires
v. Exterior lights that are over-ridden by a photo cell
vi. Exterior Eave Outlets
6. Why do the top or bottoms of certain outlets not work?
a. Switched ½ hot outlets (1 half of a duplex recpetacle is hot 100% of the time, and the other is only hot when the switch is turned on) are intended for use with lamps or other plug-in type lighting. Check switches to make sure they are all turned on, and check the outlet in question to see if both receptacles are now turned on.
7. Why does the whole house fan come on by itself sometimes, or not seem to come on automatically?
a. Most homes have “Whole House Fans” – a fan generally located in an upstairs bathroom or laundry roomn that circulates that draws air out of your home and is designed to increase indoor air quality. Such fans generally have both a 24-hour dial timer, and an “over-ride on” switch. That means that the timer will turn the fan on per the settings when in the auto position, and the switch may be used to “over-ride” the timer and turn the fan on when the timer is off, but not turn the fan off when the timer is set to turn it on. If the fan always runs, check to see if the slide switch on the timer is in the “on” position. If the fan only comes on when the over-ride switch is turned on, check to make sure the timer slide switch is in the “auto” rather than “off” position, and that the timer is set to turn on at the desired times.
8. Why do shower cans, or other cans suddenly turn off after being on for a period of time?
a. Recessed can lights have a “thermal cutout”, or a temp sensor that shuts the can off if the temp gets too high. The temp will get too high if a bulb higher than the maximum wattage is used. Bulbs higher than 40 watts should not be used in cans with enclosed trims (such as shower trims).
9. Why did a light that has worked quit working?
a. After a light bulb has been changed a couple times, sometime the tab in the back of the socket that makes contact with the back of the bulb gets pushed too far into the socket. This can cause flickering, intermittent failure, and shorten bulb life. To fix this, simply turn the power off at the breaker panel, and gently pry the tab out from the back of the socket with a plastic butter knife. CAUTION: Do NOT attempt to work on any light socket or electrical device with the power turned on.
10. The can over my tub or shower is out, and I have changed the bulb, and it is not more than 40 watts, but it still is not working. What else should I check?
a. Lights located over tubs and showers are often protected by a “Blank Face GFCI”. Much like the GFCI’s you have in your Kitchen and Bathroom areas, “Blank Face GFCI’s” have a reset button that should be pushed in the event it trips. This device does not have a receptacle opening for accepting a plug-in device, hence the name “Blank Face”. They are often located in the adjacent closet or behind the bathroom door. Other items that are protected by “Blank Face GFCI’s” include jetted tubs and heaters, towel warmers, in-floor heating, and other systems installed in bathrooms.
11. Why did my exterior light quit working?
a. Exterior lights are often controlled by a “photo cell” – a device that turns lights on only when ambient light falls below a certain level. This is intended to happen at night time, but can also happen if landscaping is allowed to grow in front of the sensor, if BBQ’s or other material is placed in front of them, or if dirt and debris is builds up across the device lens. You can test your photo-cell by turning any light switches that may also be associated with the light on, and then placing taoe over the photo cell lens. If your photo cell is no longer functioning properly, it can be replaced. This is a relatively nomal repair that could be required as often as every 3-5 years. Should you want to pursue other options, a digital astronomic timer may also be installed to trun lights on at night and remain accurate as the seasons change.
12. Why do my smoke detectors chirp?
a. While smoke and CO detectors are powered from the house electrical system, they also have battery backup in the event of power failure. The batteries need to be replaced annualy as part of your regular maintanence routine. One of the reasons a smoke detector may chirp is that the battery needs to be replaced. After replacing the battery, hold the test button down for a couple of seconds to ensure the detector is cuntioning properly and interconnected with the other detectors in the house. Other reasons smoke and CO detectors may chirp include: intermittent power loss, alarm memory, “end of life alarms”, and power surges. If detectors continue to chirp after replacing batteries and pressing the reset buttons, visit Kidde’s help center for further diagnosis:
13. Why are the bedroom lights or outlets not working?
a. All the bedroom outlets and lights are protected by Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) breakers. This is a special breaker in your electrical panel with a small test button located on the face of the breaker. They are very sensitive to some consumer devices and electronics that are not compatable with AFCI protection, so if you are unable to reset the break or experience frequent “nuisance” tripping, try unplugging items from the circuit to help identify what is causing it to trip. All jurisdictions require AFCI protection in all habitable rooms throughout the house. If a device is causing an AFCI brekaer to trip frequently you can also try plugging it into a bathroom or kicthen outlet.
14. Why did the kitchen, dining, or nook outlets quit working?
a. Outlets in these areas are now protected by Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFI) and AFCI combination breakers. This combination breaker may trip when there is a problem with a device plugged into an outlet they are protecting. If you are unable to reset a AFCI/GFCI breaker that has tripped, unplug everything plugged into an outlet without power. If you are still unable to reset the GFI, check the electrical panel in the garage and reset and breakers that have tripped. A GFI usually cannot be reset if the circuit breaker is off. Based on the new code this breaker will.
b. If an electrical technician is responding to check on the tripping circuit they should perform a motor load/heat load test on that circuit to show it is working properly.
15. Why did the bathroom outlets quit working?
a. Bathroom outlets are also protected by GFI devices which could be located in a different bathroom. See the above (12) to restore power.
16. Why did the exterior outlet quit working?
a. Exterior outlets are also protected by GFI devices which are typically located in the garage. See the above (12) to restore power. Also, exterior outlets located in high locations ofr holiday lighting may be controlled by a light switch. Ensure any related light switches are in the “on” position, and check again to see if the outlet is now powered.
17. Why did the garage outlets or garage door opener (GDO) quit working?
a. These outlets are also protected by GFI devices which are typically located in the garage. See the above (12) to restore power.
18. Why do GFI’s trip so easily?
a. GFCI outlets trip when voltage leaks are detected. This is a safety feature designed to protect you. Faulty cords or plug end, wet conditions, or large motor loads can trip GFI’s. Some devices only trip GFCI’s under certain conditions, or cetrain cycles of their operations. For example – a washing machine may only trip a GFCI on some heavy load cycles. In any case, GFCI’s are made to trip when detecting arcing or voltage leaks from an appliance or device plugged into them or on the same circuit These typiclaly can trip if electric lawn tools, motor loads, or other similar loads are plugged in and are not GFCI compatable. Be very careful when using GFI protected devices to supply power to refrigeration or freezing appliances, as potential tripping on these devices may result in power loss and food spoilage.
19. Why has half the house lost power?
a. Check to see if any of the circuit breakers have tripped, and reset them if needed. If that does not help, or if no breakers have been tripped, it may be that one leg of the power wires serving the house has lost connection. This may happen after a storm, or after a pertiod of rain. One way to check for this is to assess some of the 240v devices in your home (typically ovens or dryers). If they trun on, but only have partial function or do not seem to heat up very quickly, than it is very likely that you have lost one power leg supplying your home. The quickest way to restore power, in this case, is to contact the local utility company and have them send a repair crew.